Thursday 6 May 2010

Dumfries and Galloway

It rained steadily all night, disturbing my sleep, but only with the noise on the flysheet. Having discovered that sleeping under the flysheet only and using the inner tent as a ground sheet affords me considerably more space, I am now able to pack my things away in their entirety without going outside.

I did this this morning, climbing into waterproofs before making my exit, only to discover that the rain had stopped. The skies were still leaden grey, but there were promises of breaks in the cloud to the north and west, which is where I was headed. It seemed that my luck on the weather front would hold up.

The 10 miles or so into Dumfries were unremarkeable really. Fields of rolling grassland with lots of smelly cows and sheep; it is trully amazing how the pungent odour of slurry can colour your image of a place, but being the strongest memory sense, I worried that Dumfries might always be remembered for this.

I stopped in Dumfries and populated Costa coffee again, where I new that I would get power for the computer, good coffee and a little something to tie me over before I stopped for my obligatory bowl of porridge later in the day.

Robbie Burns and his legacy are in evidence throughout the town and surrounding countryside. I was going to take a picture of the statue of him, but a gull was sat on his head and the evidence of so many others before this one was such that he looked a little sorry for himself bewigged with guano. Just to say that I've been there.

Heading out of town I passed briefly through Terregles, the ancestral home of the Carlisles, my father in laws mothers family. I include this photo for you Jack.

I spent the next 6 hours or so weaving my way through the country lanes following the A76 heading toward my eventual destination of Cumnock, in Ayr. I stopped for lunchbeside the beautiful River Nith and watched the young trout rise for the small number of flies that alighted on the water. On another day I would have enjoyed to cast at them, but today I was happy enough to be an observer and to take in the sounds of the Drumlanrig estate.


Just before 7 I arrived in Cumnock hoping to find information about campsites close by. Hunkered down on the pavement by a bridge crossing the Lugar Water I referred to the laptop for inspiration and was duly spotted by Christine and Alec passing by in their car. Recognising me for a fellow cyclist they stopped to ask if I was looking for accommodation.

I am now sitting in their wonderfully warm home having spent the night in a proper bed, eatne their food and drunk their beer. I have promised to return the favour by bestowing it on another traveller when I get back home. Alec and Christine, I am so grateful, not just for the hospitality but for the generosity of spirit that says more about this little town than words could.

Tight lines Alec and please thank your friend for the patience that caught him the Salmon.

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